How is unwanted hair removed?
During a session, an electrologist inserts a hair-thin, solid metal probe into the natural opening of the hair follicle. The probe delivers a small electrical current to the base of the follicle, destroying the stem cells and dermal papilla responsible for hair regeneration. Once these structures are destroyed, the follicle cannot produce new hair.
Because human hair naturally progresses through cycles of active growth (anagen), transition (catagen), and resting (telogen), patients require a series of treatments to target each hair during its active growth phase.
The Three Methods of Electrolysis
Electrologists use one of three primary methods, depending on the patient’s hair and skin type:
- Galvanic electrolysis: Introduced in 1875, this method uses a direct electrical current to create a chemical reaction that produces sodium hydroxide (lye) inside the follicle. The lye dissolves the hair root. It is effective for coarse or curly hair but requires several seconds per hair, making it the slowest method.
- Thermolysis: Developed in the 1920s, thermolysis uses alternating current to generate heat, which coagulates the hair matrix cells. It is faster than the galvanic method and is typically used for larger areas or fine, straight hair.
- The blend method: Introduced in 1948, this technique combines galvanic and thermolysis currents. The heat from thermolysis accelerates the chemical reaction of the galvanic current. It is suitable for all hair types, including deep or coarse hair.
Electrolysis vs. Laser Hair Removal
The FDA classifies electrolysis as a method for permanent hair removal, whereas laser devices are cleared for permanent hair reduction.
Laser treatments target dark melanin pigment in the hair shaft. Consequently, lasers are generally ineffective for blonde, red, gray, or white hair, and they carry a risk of hyperpigmentation or burns for individuals with darker skin tones. Electrolysis does not rely on pigment targeting and is effective for all skin tones and hair colors.
Medical professionals often recommend electrolysis for individuals with hormonal imbalances, such as polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS). In PCOS patients, laser treatments can sometimes trigger paradoxical hypertrichosis, a condition that increases hair growth in treated areas.
Side Effects and Aftercare
Temporary side effects are a normal part of the post-treatment healing process:
- Redness and swelling: Localized redness (erythema) and slight swelling may occur immediately after treatment and typically subside within a day.
- Scabbing: Tiny scabs may form at the follicle openings. Clients are advised not to scratch or pick these scabs to prevent scarring.
- Pigmentation changes: Temporary dark or light spots can occur, particularly on darker skin tones, but generally fade over time.
For 24 to 48 hours following treatment, patients should avoid heavy sun exposure, excessive sweating, swimming, and heavy makeup. Cold compresses, witch hazel, or aloe vera can be applied to reduce inflammation.
Common Questions
Is electrolysis hair removal truly permanent?
Electrolysis completely destroys the follicle’s regenerative structures. Once destroyed, the follicle cannot grow hair again.
Does electrolysis hair removal hurt?
Electrolysis clients typically describe the sensation as a momentary pinch, heat, or mild stinging. Discomfort varies by individual pain tolerance and the sensitivity of the treated area. Over-the-counter numbing creams containing 5% lidocaine can be applied 30 minutes before an appointment.
How long do electrolysis sessions take?
The duration of a session depends on the size of the area and hair density. Small areas, such as the upper lip, may take 15 minutes, while larger areas like the legs or back can take one to two hours per session.
How many electrolysis hair removal sessions will I need?
Because hair grows in cycles, multiple sessions are required to treat every hair during its active phase. Patients who follow a consistent treatment plan typically complete the process within 18 months.